Perkins Harter Brocken Vineyard Chardonnay
From Shelby's own Bracken Vineyard, this is an exceptionally poised Chardonnay. There is such clarity, but not at the sacrifice of pleasure, with a subtle creaminess and some leesy depth that is surrounded by mineral overtones. Not a rich, sultry wine but an exercise in subtle detail and careful balance. 1/3 is aged in new French oak, which I barely detected, but the barrels are rinsed multiple times with salted water, a little-known Burgundian technique that removes the toasty, oaky flavors from the barrel. Another small detail in a wine made of many thoughtful decisions, this is a wine that speaks of craft and intentionality at every step from vineyard to cellar. Jonathan Kemp