This is the wine that made Dave Phinney's return to Zinfandel a thing people argued about. The name refers to the eight year non compete he sat out after selling The Prisoner, and the wine is his answer to it: a Zin led California blend built for richness rather than restraint. Opaque, inky, peppery and soft, it does not ask the customer to work for it.

The backbone is Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, filled out with Petite Sirah for colour and grip and a splash of Syrah for savoury lift. Eight months in French oak at 32% new keeps the wood in a supporting role, so the fruit stays loud and the texture stays plush.

Fruit comes from sites across California, with three worth naming on the shelf talker:

• Monte Rosso, the historic high elevation vineyard in Sonoma County's Moon Mountain District AVA, one of the most storied old vine sites in the state
• Stefani Ranch
• Dark Horse

Monte Rosso is the name that does the heavy lifting here. Its mountain grown, iron rich red soil Zinfandel is the reason this wine has structure under all that fruit.

Tasting notes

• Appearance: opaque mauve core with a vivid fuchsia rim
• Nose: black plum, boysenberry galette, Tellicherry peppercorn, ripe raspberry, cedar and musk
• Palate: wild blackberry, crispy pluot, dark chocolate, a hint of fennel and slate, silky textured with soft tannins
• Finish: long, warm and spice driven
• Drink: now through 2031
• Serve: 62 to 65°F, big bowled glass, 30 minutes open. Slightly cool is the trick with 15.4%, since warm serving makes the alcohol shout.