Crozes-Hermitage AOC · Northern Rhône, France

Granite hillsides, not flatlands. That is the whole story here. Granite slopes rather than flatlands give Saint Cosme's Crozes-Hermitage greater structure and complexity, and the wine shows classic aromas and flavors of black fruits, smoked bacon, black peppercorn, and incense. The fruit is sourced from the hillside vineyards of Erôme, Gervans, and Larnage in the northern part of the appellation, the sites that most resemble the steep terraces of Hermitage itself.

Château de Saint Cosme is the leading estate of Gigondas and produces the benchmark wines of the appellation. The property has been in the hands of the Barruol family since 1490, and Louis Barruol took over from his father in 1992, making a dramatic shift to quality and converting to biodynamics in 2010. In addition to the estate-grown wines labeled "Château de Saint Cosme," Barruol buys grapes from contracted growers and labels these négociant wines simply as "Saint Cosme."

This bottling is produced from 100% Sérine, an ancient and local variety of Syrah markedly different from modern selections. It is more oval, with lots of space in the bunch, resulting in a very aromatic wine. It is made from 100% destemmed grapes, fermented with indigenous yeasts, aged in 20% new 228-liter barrels, and bottled without fining or filtration.

Tasting Notes Black fruits and dark cherry at the core, with smoked bacon, cracked black peppercorn, and incense lifting the nose. Granite gives the palate its tension and savory grip, finishing long, stony, and fresh rather than heavy.

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