Rolling from the estate's north boundary fence to the foot of the Douglas firs, the brick house looks out over eight acres of Dijon-clone vines on a full south slope that have supplied superior fruit since 1998; "Les Dijonnais" represents the best barrels from this warm site, and in contrast with the Pommard-clone bottlings it offers a more floral interpretation of the grape, often showing hints of rose petal and meadow flowers.

Tasting notes: A bright, transparent red color with an incredible perfume of fresh lavender, snappy black raspberry, fresh earth, wildflowers and bright herbs; it's long on the palate, medium-bodied, with a long-lasting floral finish. Give it air, or give it years, it finishes tense with edgy tannins.

Scores

• 93 points, Vinous Media — "darkly floral yet youthfully backward," with Earl Grey, stone dust and dried black cherries
• 93 points, Wine Spectator — "vibrant and fresh," with cherry, cranberry, green tea and forest floor, gathering tension on the finish
• Cellar-worthy: drink over the course of 15 or more years

How it was made: Certified Demeter Biodynamic. 100% Pinot Noir — Dijon 113, 114, 115, 667, 777 from Brick House Estate blocks planted in 1995 on marine sedimentary soils. Hand-harvested September 24–30, native-yeast fermentation, aged 18 months in French oak (30% new). 13% abv. Fermented with 32% whole clusters.

Perfect with Roast duck, cedar-plank salmon, pork loin with cherries, morels and cream, aged Comté. Decant 45–60 minutes. Serve at 60–63°F.